Becoming Carmen

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Checking Into The Falstaff: Mediaeval Lodging in the Heart of Canterbury

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The Falstaff has served Canterbury for over six centuries, beginning as a traditional coaching inn in the early 15th century.

It was initially named The White Hart (fun fact: it’s still one of the most famous names for English pubs), a vestry meeting venue dating back to the 16th-century accounts of churchwardens. But in the 18th century, when Shakespeare’s fictional character Sir John Falstaff featured in three plays that delighted audiences throughout England, the inn was renamed The Falstaff (as were many in the country).

Today, the hotel occupies a prime location between the Canterbury West rail station and the mediaeval Westgate Towers, where the Canterbury High Street begins. For driving guests, there is a small car park on-site (first-come-first-served and not guaranteed with hotel booking) and another public car park on North Lane.


Guest Rooms

Over the years, The Falstaff has expanded into the adjacent wood mill and Tap, a pub, converting them into additional wings to house more guest rooms. The three buildings surround a central courtyard (the bar terrace and car park):

  • Main house: overlooks St Dunstan’s Street and the Westgate Towers

  • Woodmill: located at the rear of the hotel

  • Taprooms: face North Lane

The Classic Room is located in the Taprooms, and while I had to lug my bags up a narrow staircase, the lowrise buildings were mercifully only two floors high and provided plenty of privacy—I imagine some of the smaller rooms facing St Dunstan’s Street may not feel the same.

Each room is uniquely designed and fitted with bespoke fabrics and furnishings, with upholstery reminiscent of Laura Ashley’s palettes and signed artworks. It’s a pleasant combination of traditional warmth with a touch of contemporary British cosiness that makes you settle in right at home.

The real surprise, however, was the bright, spacious bathroom (probably the best one I’ve had on this trip to the UK), fitted with amenities from Verden. Translating to “the earth” in Danish, the vegan and cruelty-free brand features body products formulated with botanicals. Their signature scent, D’Orangerie, is an aromatic infusion of citrus and orange blossom hinting at warm British summers.


Restaurant

All room reservations at The Falstaff include a complimentary breakfast, perfect for grabbing a bite before you start the day. This was especially handy on days I was headed for the Canterbury West rail station, as there aren’t many options away from the High Street.

The breakfast menu includes the classic full English breakfast (with vegetarian and vegan variations, that’s Europe for you), eggs Benedict, as well as lighter continental options, avocado toast, and pancakes.


Lounge

When you enter The Falstaff, it’s immediately apparent that there’s a lot of sitting space encompassing the reception area, which bleeds into the cocktail bar. Between the beamed ceilings, sumptuous velvet upholstery, and fireplace with exposed brickwork, the lounge is a cosy spot to wind down after a day of exploration.

It’s also where afternoon tea–an unmissable English tradition–takes place daily, with sandwiches, cakes and scones to satisfy your savoury and sweet cravings. Consider adding a glass of French bubbles or a cocktail for the more indulgent.


Cocktail Bar

The focal point of The Falstaff’s lobby is its glittering cocktail bar, which features leather bar stools in a deep teal. I loved the classic Canterbury Tales menu, which featured cheeky drinks named after each character, and the mysterious botanical menu. Want to dive more into the dazzling bottles? The team offers 90-minute cocktail masterclasses, perfect for aspiring bartenders and enthusiastic small groups.

The Falstaff also sources local and seasonal food producers to maximise freshness and minimise footprint. Wines are served on tap, supplied in kegs by vineyards from Kent to the Sussex Downs.

In true British summer fashion, the outdoor terrace includes parasols and heating. Guests can mingle under string lights in the jovial space, which on busy nights rivals even the popular pub next door.


Thoughts

I was anxious that accommodation options would be slim pickings in Canterbury, but my worries were needless, as the town had come a long way since I lived here a decade ago.

Among the many hotels that have popped up in half-timbered and stonework houses, The Falstaff bested them in many ways. It’s a stone’s throw from the rail station, with a local bus stop right across. Sainsbury’s Local is right on the corner (perfect for those late-night snacks), and the property entrance offers a superb view of the Westgate Towers at all times of the day. The paved High Street may be a leisurely walk on foot, but your luggage wheels will likely disagree.

The interiors have also been lovingly restored to reflect the hotel’s mediaeval roots while injecting a contemporary aesthetic, and for a boutique hotel, its bathroom was huge. The only shortfall was that Wi-Fi was spotty for most of our stay, but given that I was out exploring for most of the day and had plenty of mobile data, it worked out fine.

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