On the banks of the River Seine lies Rouen, a port city and vibrant capital of Normandy. It is only 1.5 hours away from Paris by train, making it highly accessible even by public transport.

Much of Rouen’s prosperity during the mediaeval times was attributed to river traffic on the Seine and the textile and wool industry that flourished with the Renaissance. The Paschal Lamb on Rouen’s coat of arms is a nod to its farming history. The city most notably rose to fame when Joan of Arc was tried—and burned—at the market square.

The city boasts several magnificent Gothic churches and was famously dubbed “the city of a hundred spires” by French writer Victor Hugo. Although badly destroyed during WWII, its historic sites have since been restored. Rouen, with its half-timbered houses and cobbled streets, gives a beautiful glimpse into mediaeval France. In addition, it has the second-most listed monuments in France (after Paris), making it an important historical and cultural location.

Travelling soon? Our digital map covering this entire blog post could be handy.

Contents

Getting to Rouen (from Paris)

A direct train from Paris takes only one and a half hours and is the best option for those looking for speed and comfort. France’s state-owned railway system, SNCF, operates trains throughout the day from Gare Saint-Lazare to Gare de Rouen. As many French living in Normandy commute to work in Paris, avoid rush hour traffic on weekdays (going in the opposite direction, though, is fine).

A one-way train ticket purchased in advance starts at US$10 but increases to US$30 as the travel date approaches.

The bus is even more budget-friendly than the train and only takes slightly more time. But, again, ticket prices range between US$1 and 10 depending on the proximity to the travel date. As bus stations in Paris are less centrally located than Gare Saint-Lazare, confirm if the departing station is correct before purchase.

Public transport in Rouen City has undergone a facelift in recent years, with the Astuce network covering much of the town in its bus, tramway, and river shuttle services. Tickets can be used across the city buses and tramway, each valid for one hour from the validation time. The good news is that buses in Rouen are free every Saturday, so use them if you want to explore the more remote parts of the city.

Astuce operates four light rail or tramway lines in the city:

• T1 (red line) – Mont aux Malades to Boulingrin

• T2 (green line) – Marie v Schœlcher to Tamarelle

• T3 (purple line) – Bizet to Darécu

• T4 (yellow line) – Boulingrin to Zénith – Parc Expo

• Metro (blue line) – Boulingrin to Georges Braque or Technopôle

The first three run to the north of the Seine, and the last two terminate on the south of the river. The metro line runs underground in the city centre before resurfacing south of the river, hence its name.

Again, trams are free on Saturdays.

The new Calypso river shuttle is part of the Astuce transport network in France and operates 100% on solar electricity.

On the west of town, it connects Pasteur Pontoon (the right bank) to Building 107 (the left bank), except on hockey nights, when it runs from Quai du Pré aux Loups (the right bank) to Lacroix Island Ice Rink (the left bank). Pasteur station is a 2-minute walk from the Pasteur bus station, which offers access to routes T1, T2 and T3.

While weekend crossings are free, passengers must hold a validated transport ticket (although no travel count will be deducted), and no tickets are available for sale aboard the shuttle.

Rouen’s self-service bikes are operated by Lovélo, and their 60 stations are easily recognisable with raspberry-coloured hoops. Like most self-service bikes around Europe, you’ll need their mobile app to unlock a bike.

Lovélo offers several pricing, each inclusive of free access for 30 minutes per trip and €1 for every 30 minutes beyond:

• Annual subscription: €25

• 1-day pass: €1

• 7-days pass: €5

Public transport to Rouen from Paris is so affordable and convenient that driving will likely become more expensive once you factor in traffic, toll, gasoline, and parking costs. Driving will also set you back by half an hour, totalling around two hours from Paris.

However, driving may be a more sensible option if you’re already on a road trip around Normandy, and you’ll be free to stop in any French town you pass.

Most highways in France are toll roads, and you'll get a ticket from a machine when the toll road starts and then pay the corresponding amount when you exit the highway. Unfortunately, credit cards aren't always accepted, so carry euros on you when driving.

Like many large French cities with old towns cut off from traffic and suffering from traffic congestion, Rouen offers park-and-ride facilities to encourage public transport. These car parks are often available on the edge of town within close access to tram or bus stations, some free of charge and others free upon validating a tram or bus ticket at the exit.

What to See and Do

The gothic edifice stands in the heart of the old town, its western facade so impressively wide it barely fits into photographs. What began as a replacement for a Romanesque cathedral became a project to be built and rebuilt over eight centuries, featuring elaborate architectural styles from Gothic to Flamboyant and Renaissance. Its three towers were all made in different styles.

• Tour Saint-Romain (left) — Part of the original Gothic architecture, its last storey was constructed in Flamboyant style, creating a distinct contrast with the rest of the structure. It contains the bourdon (largest Cathedral bell), named Joan of Arc, as well as the 64 smaller bells of the carillon, the second-largest in France

• Tour de Beurre (butter tower) (right) — Constructed in a late Flamboyant style, its popular name came from it being financed by the sale of dispensation for consumption of butter and milk during Lent

• Lantern tower (centre) — The tallest of the towers, its flèche (spire) stands over the transept despite having been destroyed by fires and rebuilt repeatedly

Its stunning facade was also the subject of over 30 paintings by Claude Monet, who depicted its splendour in different lights of the day. His canvases, some of which were exhibited in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, have earned the monument its rightful place as a top location in Rouen.

At 151 metres tall, the cathedral proudly stands as France’s tallest and houses numerous religious relics, including the literal heart of Richard the Lionheart buried in a tomb. Miraculously, it survived the Wars of Religion, the French Revolution and World War II (despite almost being destroyed by Allied bombs on D-day).

The spectacular evening light show was an unexpected highlight of our time in Rouen. Every summer, animation is projected onto the cathedral’s Western facade, telling a story with elaborate audio-visual effects. I was mighty jet-lagged and fell asleep, but everything I remember about it was impressive! Better secure a seat in the shallow steps of the square, as locals and tourists will pour in to watch the show, lining the streets to the next block.

Translating to “the big clock”, Gros Horloge is an immense, golden astronomical wonder straddling the town’s main shopping street of the same name. It’s a massive sight you cannot miss — we walked up and down the cobbled streets every day. And before anyone gets started on my (lack of) French grammar, yes, modern French clocks are feminine (la horloge), but this has not always been the case as clocks were masculine (le horloge) before the 18th century.

The clock’s movement was built in the 14th century and initially installed in the adjacent belfry with no dial to the clock. After the Renaissance archway was constructed in the 16th century, the clock was moved to it with identical dials built on either side, each spanning 2.5 metres and rich in astronomical symbolism. The watch face represents a golden sun with 24 rays encircled by a blue starry night. An oculus above the dial indicates the phases of the moon. Below the dial, a panel shows the day of the week symbolised by planets and Apollo, the God of the sun. The clock completes a full rotation every 29 days. Its mechanism is one of the oldest in Europe and has been powered by electricity since the 1920s. Astronomical clocks are a wonder of the mediaeval world.

If you look at the archway closely, you’ll also find a crest with a lamb flanked by two angels, one of whose head looks a bit funky—the deliberate work of the workers due to their discontent at the time of construction.

The inside of the building is relatively modest in contrast to its ornate exterior. Each storey has exhibits on the history of Rouen, the clockmaker’s workshop, bells, and weights. The highlight is climbing the belfry tower, which leads up to the viewing deck. Although only several stories high, it offers an unobstructed panoramic view of Rouen town, as surrounding buildings are pretty low-rise.

If you've been following my journeys, you may have realised that one of my travel cravings is to climb anything scalable. Not the sky towers with a lift taking you to the very top (cue expensive and crowded), but the obscure buildings with narrow stairways and sloping decks. The kind where you hang onto the handrail and squish just to get past people going in opposite directions. Where buildings breathe and sigh as you move, the pockmarked walls running smoothly under your fingertips. Where the wind blows against your face (and not a glass panel) as you admire mesmerising views. The tell-tale signs of your heart catching in your throat as you stare down the drop make you feel alive.

While the belfry is precisely this kind of tower, it’s worth noting that some passageways are tiny and do not offer much leeway if there is two-way traffic. I recommend visiting right when it opens to avoid crowds. We were out and about early in the morning, so we enjoyed breakfast at PAUL down the street, waiting for the doors to open.

Nicknamed “The Maid of Orléans”, Joan of Arc is a legendary tale of a young peasant girl who fought in the Hundred Years’ War. Despite not having had any military training, she gained prominence by achieving swift victories at a young age. Unfortunately, the English put her on trial for heresy, declared her guilty, and sentenced her to be burned at the stake. After her death, she was pronounced innocent, claimed a national symbol of France by Napoleon Bonaparte, and later named a patron saint of France. The French commemorate her in May every year with the Joan of Arc Festival held in Rouen.

The striking, modern structure dominating the centre of the Place du Vieux-Marché was designed by architect Louis Arretche and built in the 1970s. There are several interpretations of the bold and contemporary building, which you will need to circle to view all the contours and multilayers:

• Sweeping curves mimic the flames that consumed the square long ago and an overturned longship, the latter of which many early Christian churches resemble

• Market halls resemble smaller overturned boats and fish with gaping mouths, both rich Christian symbols

• The tiled roof echoes the theme with copper scales, almost Nordic in style, evoking thoughts of the sea

While much less imposing, the church’s interior echoes the overturned ship theme with dramatic wooden beams on the ceiling. The church was mostly closed during its opening hours. It took us a few tries to get in, but only once inside can you marvel at the beautiful stained-glass windows salvaged from the Renaissance Church of St. Vincent that was destroyed in World War II. 13 panels on the glass wall light up to illustrate the life of Christ and several saints, bathing the interior in a soft wash of morning light.

Outside, a small garden to the north denotes a small sign, Le Bûcher (the pyre), marking the exact spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Under the extended walkway over the square lies a massive wall inscription "Ô Jeanne, sans sépulcre et sans portrait, toi qui savais que le tombeau des héros est le coeur des vivants” (Oh Joan, without a sepulchre and without a portrait, you who knew that the tomb of heroes is in the hearts of the living) and a plague that lovingly reads, “A Jeanne d’Arc, le peuple Francais reconnaissant” (To Joan of Arc, from the grateful French people). Visiting the church felt extra special because Joan of Arc is one of the few books I studied in English literature — it was the morphing of fiction into reality.

There’s a reason why the tale of Saint Joan of Arc has remained preserved in myths for centuries.

For those looking to delve deeper into the incredible story of Joan of Arc, which has been preserved in myths over centuries, the Joan of Arc Historical is an unmissable archive of information.

The museum is set in the Archiepiscopal Palace, the official residence of the Metropolitan Archbishop of Rouen. To reenact Joan of Arc’s epic life, a digital show plays out with elaborate audiovisual effects and trial testimonies given by actors. The show is in French, but English headsets are available on-site.

Bonus: Head to the top of the building for an aerial view of Rouen.

A 15-minute walk from Rouen town centre, this tower was the keep of Philippe Auguste’s 13th-century castle, the only remaining part that had not been dismantled. It was formerly known as the castle’s dungeon (donjon), as it was here that Joan of Arc was tried and threatened with torture.

The large, cylindrical tower offers tours at specific slots and houses an escape game themed under the 15th-century siege of Rouen.

The abbey was named after Saint Ouen, Rouen’s great bishop, who was buried here in the 7th century. It’s famous for its large and unaltered organ housed in an oak case, one of the largest and finest in France. It’s renowned for its extensive and unaltered organ housed in an oak case, one of the largest and finest in France. It was built by Cavaillé-Coll, a distinguished organ builder of the 19th century who was once described as “a Michelangelo of an organ”.

Built on a scale similar to the nearby Rouen Cathedral, the abbey would have been an impressive cathedral anywhere else in France, but only in Rouen is overshadowed by the Notre Dame Cathedral. Nevertheless, it remains a rare masterpiece built in the Rayonnant Gothic style. The period was characterised by increased light in interiors and elaborate traceries in both windows and stonework (“rayonnant” originated from beaming rays of sunlight streaming through glass windows). In addition, the abbey has one of France's finest collections of 14th-century stained glass windows, featuring jewel tones among panels of clear and frosted white glass. The resulting nave receives better illumination and is brighter than most Gothic churches.

One can admire the abbey’s flying buttresses, central tower and chevet from the neighbouring old abbey gardens, now part of City Hall. The majestic lantern tower, 88 metres tall, follows the Norman tradition of rising above the transept crossing and houses the church bells.

This Roman Catholic church is considered one of the best examples of France's Flamboyant Gothic architecture style. Rouen Cathedral, the Palais de Justice and the Saint-Ouen form a famous ensemble of significant Gothic buildings in Rouen.

Funded by the wealthy merchant class, the church was constructed during the transition from late Gothic to Renaissance to replace an existing parish church that had suffered neglect.

The famous western facade is towerless but features a rose window atop gabled porches with intricate flying buttresses. Its spire reaches a height of 83 meters. The church interiors are intentionally macabre and designed to evoke emotion, referencing the grim Black Death pandemic (see Aïtre St. Maclou below).

Unfortunately, its exterior stone statues have suffered much from war and pollution, while the interiors were pilfered during the French Revolution, leaving the chapels rather bare. However, its Renaissance outer doors and the organ miraculously escaped destruction from the French Revolution and World War II.

Behind a doorway just across from the Church of St. Maclou is the aître – a mass cemetery. During the Black Death of 1348, three-quarters of the district’s inhabitants passed away, and their bodies were buried in the new cemetery. Then, 299 years later, the second plague pandemic hit, and bones from the first burials had to be removed to make room for the newly dead.

At first glance, the courtyard may appear like any other half-timbered structure, but it’s anything but. Three galleries surrounding the necropolis were built to serve as an ossuary. Like the Church of St. Maclou, the decor is macabre: skulls and skeletons were carved into the wooden timbers. There’s even a mummified black cat near the entrance.

Until recently, the location was used by a fine arts academy. Despite its unusualness and spook factor, it remains a stark reminder of the hardship faced by everyday folk throughout the Middle Ages.

The ornate Gothic building is the “Palace of Justice”, the former seat of the parliament of Normandy that has remained in use as a court of appeal. It was built in the 16th century on the remains of the Jewish quarter destroyed earlier, with further additions as late as the 19th century.

Although the building sustained heavy damage during World War II air raids, it has since been restored to its glory of spires and gargoyles, which can be admired from far outside its courtyard railings. All that remains as an echo of its history are the pockmarks, bullet and shrapnel scars still visible from Rue Jeanne d’Arc.

Rouen’s Museum of Fine Arts, near the Tower of Joan of Arc, houses one of France's most outstanding public collections. It features paintings, sculptures, and drawings from every school.

Artists showcased include Perugino, Gerard David, Clouet, Veronese, Rubens, Caravaggio, Velázquez, Vouet, and Poussin, among many others. In addition, a generous donation by François Depeaux in 1909 included paintings by Monet, Sisley, Caillebotte, Pissarro, Degas and Renoir, establishing the museum as home to the second-largest Impressionist collection in France.

The popular comment is that collections heavily focus on religious art, with a room full of Joan of Arc paintings. Nevertheless, one of Monet’s famous canvases of the Rouen Cathedral is on display and should not be missed by art lovers. There’s also a beautiful ceilinged courtyard with colossal paintings and sculptures, where visitors can take a break and snack while enjoying the art.

No audio guides or pamphlets are available, so non-French-speaking visitors may find navigating the museum tricky. However, given the sheer variety of the collection and the free entrance to permanent exhibitions, the museum makes a great backup plan for rainy days.

Devoted to the art of wrought ironwork, the museum stemmed from Jean-Louis-Henri Le Secq Destournelles, a painter who became one of the first photographers in France. When commissioned to photograph French monuments, he discovered ironwork adorning towns and monuments, and his appreciation for the metal led him to start a collection:

The collection is housed in the 15th-century church of Saint-Laurent (unknowingly saving it from ruin in the 19th century) opposite the Museum of Fine Arts.

With nearly 14,000 pieces, the collection spans both history and geography. Sophisticated works and folk art objects are included, with only traditional weapons excluded as they could already be found elsewhere. There are also unconventional collections: keys, gates and hinges, door knockers, lighting, ironing and sewing, cutlery and even signs.

Wandering around the old town likely means getting lost among mediaeval-looking alleys and cobbled pedestrian streets lined with charming half-timbered buildings that look decidedly unstable, leaning sideways or into the road itself.

Half-timbered houses were made of a wooden framework and infill, built on waterproof stone bases. Some sported richly decorated oak corbelings, a technique developed in the 14th century that enabled upper floors to overhang the ground floor while protecting the facade from rain. Interestingly enough, taxation used to be calculated by the property's footprint, which meant that house owners could minimise tax by using corbeling techniques to save space on the ground while gaining space on upper floors. Eventually, corbeling was banned in the 16th century due to fire hazards that could spread quickly between houses huddled so close together.

Despite the war’s destruction, Rouen still has about 2,000 half-timbered houses, half of which have been restored and a tenth listed as historical monuments. The areas around Rue du Gros-Horloge and Place du Vieux Marché are the best for admiring their romanticism and charm.

The lookout point east of Rouen stands 140 metres high and offers spectacularly unobstructed views of the city, the Seine, and its six bridges, especially at sunset. It’s also a quiet green spot to settle down for a picnic or admire Mother Nature. In fact, Monet painted his “General View of Rouen” from this exact spot, housed at the city’s Museum of Fine Arts.

It takes 10 minutes to walk from Martainville, the nearest tram station, to the bottom of the hill near Rue du Mont Gargan and at least another 15 minutes to make the steep ascent to the viewpoint–525 steps! Challenging, but the view makes the journey worth it. Be sure to wear proper sports shoes on the hiking path.

If you’re driving from Paris, it’s a convenient stop with a free parking lot.

The botanical garden spans eight hectares and is open daily without charge. Today, it represents over 600 plant species. It also includes a rock garden, a rose garden, an orangery, and numerous greenhouses.

Although its location in Saint-Clément, the southern tip of Rouen across the Seine from the old town, means it’s a bit out of the way, its tranquillity makes it a prime spot to picnic and spend time with the family.

Located in the Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville commune, the abbey is a mere half-hour from Rouen, making it an ideal day trip out of town.

The abbey is a former Benedictine abbey founded in the 12th century. Its architecture, typical of the Norman Romanesque style, has earned it four listings as a Monument Historique, including its abbey church, monastic building, chapter hall, and Benedictine abbey.

Despite all its accolades, our favourite part was undoubtedly the beautiful garden to the back of the buildings. It spans as far as the eye can see and is complete with magnificent terraces and orchards—even a children-friendly maze. Both charming and romantic, it makes for a tranquil reprieve stripped of the crowds and stardom typical of Rouen.

What to Eat

Finding a quaint local cafe near the old town took a lot of work.

Inhabiting a sage green corner on the Place de la Pucelle (the Square of the Maiden), Prélude specialises in beans roasted in Northern Europe and offers what is probably the best coffee in Rouen. Seasonal dishes vary each week, and although menu options were minimal, we took that as a good sign of carefully chosen ingredients. Ours was packed with a variety of foods that were every bit as healthy as it was delicious. Unfortunately, prices were not low, but good coffee is hard to come by in France.

Christophe Cressent came from a long line of artisan bakers. He opened his bakery using high-quality ingredients—their natural sourdough is made daily from organic, traditional French flour and free-range eggs.

Breakfast is a non-negotiable start to the day when travelling. One of our favourite things is to make a breakfast run to the local bakery when they open their doors, buy several freshly baked goods and eat at the apartment (especially true when it’s bitterly cold outside).

One of Ma Boulangerie’s two branches is located in Place du Vieux-Marché, making it convenient to stay nearby or just want a treat between sightseeing. I always go for the brioche au sucre or croissants; the simpler, the better, as there’s nothing quite like the sensation of holding steaming pastries wafting an enticing scent into your nose on a cold day.

A gastropub down the street from the Church of St-Maclou, the restaurant’s name is a poetic reference to the owners–Fabien in the kitchen and Victoria in the dining room–welcoming guests in tandem.

The chic restaurant’s black shopfront and alfresco seating exude a beautiful atmosphere. The menu rotates every two months to present the season’s finest ingredients on fine plating. Reserve in advance, as the restaurant is popular with locals and tourists.

With a quirky name (“the pot”), La Marmite is a restaurant with monochrome interiors and a family charm. Chef Frédérique Antoine lends a feminine touch to the dishes, while her husband Jean-Luc welcomes guests into the dining room. Entirely self-taught, Frédérique pays excellent attention to dish presentation, believing dishes should be equally delicious and beautiful.

If you like French-Japanese fusion, you’re in for a treat for its delicate finesse and flavour. Set in the shop of the former Alba, another highly popular restaurant, Au Flaméron offers French gastronomy as interpreted by Japanese chef Takahiro Oikawa. Dishes are 100% homemade with organic, local, and seasonal products and are said to rival Michelin restaurants.

La Rose des Sables serves a rich and varied menu of Moroccan and Maghreb specialities in a warm, friendly setting. Unique homemade dishes include a delicious almond tagine and a vegetarian couscous, a crowd favourite.

Located in the Northern part of town, it’s a 15-minute walk from the cathedral straight down Rue des Carmes, but its good value for money makes it worth the walk.

It is also opposite the Church of St-Maclou, with a welcoming green front underneath a cheerful orange half-timbered house. Although the menu options are short and straightforward, they are well-prepared and accompanied by an extensive wine list, offering superb value for money.

Sporting two floors and a covered terrace, Navio’s rustic, sun-bleached interiors evoke an island vacation. Mediterranean lovers will appreciate the clever seafood menu, which rotates seasonally and is complemented by a selection of wines.

Far from the tourist traps of the more central areas, Pommes d’Epices, a hearty restaurant with rustic wooden decor, lies behind the Tower of Joan of Arc and close to Gare de Rouen. It makes for a sumptuous first meal after hopping off the train.

The restaurant boasts glowing reviews of its dishes, from appetisers to desserts, as well as its ambience and service. Fresh produce is used in weekly menus, with a good dose of Norman spices. There’s also a vegetarian dish worthy of its name (“spiced apples”).

It’s a small property bustling with locals; make reservations in advance.

If you’re looking for a gastronomic experience in Rouen, this is your best bet. Sitting slightly inwards from the Seine, Gill offers refined French dining in a stylish space.

Chef Gilles Tournadre's passion boils down to two cuisines: Normandy, where he is from, and Japan, a country he’s visited regularly for over two decades. His subtle yet delightful blend of distinctive flavours has earned the restaurant two Michelin stars. Gill offers degustation menus and a la carte dishes, with signature dishes including roast pigeon, pan-friend sweetbread, and millefeuille.

Those interested can also check out Gilles’s other establishments around Rouen:

• Gill Côté Bistro: bistro fare on Place du Vieux Marché

• Café Hamlet: a restaurant in Aître St Maclou

• Les Pâtisseries de Gill: pastries and cakes by Gill

Where to Shop

I might be biased, but nothing spells “bonjour!” better than a lively local market. Crates of plump fruits and lots of conversations in French? It’s the perfect place to learn about local produce, hands-down my favourite type of shopping in Europe.

A handful of markets are scattered around Rouen, each open on different days and hours of the week. The Old Market Square is the beating heart of the old town and is probably the easiest option (albeit a little touristy) as it’s open daily (we found it most pleasant in the early morning before crowds set in). The square still possesses a provincial village charm, surrounded by restaurants in half-timbered houses and small market halls under the adjacent Church of St. Joan of Arc roof.

A fascinating conversation occurred one morning when a local walking his dog saw me taking photos with a face of wonder plastered. Curiously, he asked me where I was from and if I had such markets back home, to which I shook my head. Then, as if trying to find the right words, he paused and exclaimed, “Oh! I feel sorry for you!” before bidding me a good day and continuing with the yappy little fellow. I was laughing so hard while trying not to appear rude. A conversation I won’t forget!

Every autumn, crowds amass here for the Belly Festival (Fête du Ventre); as the name suggests, you better arrive hungry. First celebrated in the 1930s, the festival has been brought back to life to celebrate Norman gastronomy in the square, spilling onto its surrounding streets.

On the other side of the city centre lies Saint-Marc Square (beyond St. Maclou Catholic Church), housing the largest and oldest market in the city, dating from the early 19th century. Its lively weekend market grows from Friday to Sunday with a lovely buzz, which makes for great people-watching. Apart from lots of local produce like cheeses, cold cuts, pate, fish, fruits, and vegetables, there is also a fantastic selection of florists and street food that you can grab as you make the rounds and browse the antique and bric-a-brac stalls.

If you’re staying south of the river, you can check out the Emmurées Market close to the Joffre-Mutualite tram station. The square’s name originated from the convent that used to be on the spot.

The produce and flea market is open Tuesdays and Saturdays, whereas Thursdays are reserved for antiques and second-hand trading. The produce is said to pale compared to other more popular markets in town, but it could be worth a shot if antiques are your thing.

Set in the west of town inland from the Gustave Flaubert Bridge and next to the Docks 76 shopping mall, Halles Agrivin has retained its red brick exterior that now houses a massive food hall.

Biltoki, Basque for “a place where people come together,” reinvented the concept of traditional markets around France by bringing people together through eating as a social experience. Their markets around France feature all the food vendors you would expect at an old-school establishment, with bakers, farmers, butchers, fishmongers, and cheesemongers offering sample tastings and made-to-order kitchens utilising the fresh produce available. It’s a great meetup point with a buzzing vibe, even for locals – we visited Halles de Bacalan in Bordeaux and loved it.

Halles Agrivin is only closed on Mondays. All T1, T2, and T3 trams run to Mont-Riboudet, a 5-minute walk towards the riverbank.

I always stop by Galeries Lafayette in Paris; their own apparel label is arguably the best among all the department stores. If you’re not stopping by Paris or are pressed for time to shop, hit the Rouen branch at the Cathédrale tram stop for some serious retail therapy.

Where to Stay

The former historic site of Palais des Consuls has been turned into an accommodation block under the Accor group. It houses Aparthotel Adagio Access and Novotel, both brand-new properties that opened in May 2024.

Adagio Access is the economy version of Adagio Original, its midscale counterpart. If you’ve stayed with Adagio before, you’ll appreciate the similar layouts, all functional and optimised, across their properties. Many of its 75 apartments boast a view of the Boieldieu and Joan of Arc bridges overlooking the Seine. They come furnished with fully equipped kitchens, and the property offers laundry facilities, a fitness room, and a private car park. It’s also pet-friendly, making it the best option in town for extended stays.

If you’re travelling to Rouen by train, the Accor block is only ten minutes away–take the metro from Gare-Rue Verte to Théâtre des Arts and walk to the next block.

Not to be confused with Novotel Suites Rouen Normandie on the west of town, Novotel Rouen Centre offers the same locational benefits as Aparthotel Adagio Access but with a more business-like vibe and a choice of river or courtyard-view rooms. Similarly, Novotel occupies a fantastic location, considering its riverside view and proximity to the old town’s key sights.

Although Palais des Consuls’s interiors were rebuilt entirely, its walls were preserved, and its once-grandeur can still be seen in the hotel lobby with its high ceilings and stonework, a nod to the original building’s heritage and Art Deco style.

An indoor swimming pool is set to open soon (perfect for burning off those extra calories), and private parking is available on-site.

There’s a certain charm to staying within the old town, especially in cities like Rouen, where most historic sights are only a stone’s throw away, and staying at Hotel Cardinal feels like having the cathedral in your backyard. On those pesky jet-lagged days, you can venture out at sunrise and wander around an empty town. It’s magical to see the first rays creep over the towers and spires, soft shadows enhancing the Gothic details in all their glory.

The rooms were recently renovated and spotless, albeit relatively basic. The larger rooms offer a direct view of the cathedral, some even with a small terrace where you can soak in the views. However, it is not pet-friendly, as the resident cat, Grisette, does not wish to share her territory.

Parking is unavailable on-site, but the hotel is only a short walk from the Théâtre des Arts metro station.

A small boutique hotel with 22 rooms spread across four floors. Its rooms, while small, have been thoughtfully renovated in a floral and Art Deco style, with beautifully patterned wallpapers and sumptuous upholsteries. All rooms have double-glazed windows and are soundproofed–perfect for light sleepers who struggle to get a good night’s sleep when travelling.

The property runs on the same side street as Galeries Lafayette, right next to the Cathédrale tram stop and a short walk to the Théâtre des Arts metro station.

If you’re travelling in a bigger party of up to four people or are looking for a stylish apartment in the heart of the old town, L’escale du Gros Horloge can satisfy your needs. Newly opened in July 2022, It sits on the second floor of a historic building above Rue Massacre, which intersects Rue du Gros Horloge, one of Rouen’s most picturesque streets–as close as you can stay to the Gros Horloge.

Its deep, Prussian blue and mustard yellow colour palette, combined with warm woods, echos the grandeur of Gros Horloge and provides a warm alcove for your stay. It has a full kitchen, dining table, and laundry room to handle your daily needs.

Like most mediaeval buildings, however, it’s only accessible by stairs.

Housed in the 15th-century listed historic property, Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde is a luxurious hotel set in the prime location of Rouen centre. Whilst unassuming from the outside, the entrance opens into a beautiful courtyard framed by stonework and spires and offers outdoor seating (you don’t have to stay to visit).

The interiors exude an entirely different vibe from the traditional architecture – glitzy and glam, with loud modern art dotting the red and black interiors. Glass panels on the lobby floor are positioned directly above the indoor swimming pool, allowing natural light to shine through during the day.

Two different room types are offered, traditional and modern. The traditional rooms are furnished with warm wood panelling and are more spacious, but the modern rooms have better bathrooms. There are elevators but be prepared to walk with your bags between buildings.

While slightly off the Rouen centre, Radisson Blu is about as close a property you can find to the Gare de Rouen if you plan on travelling by train.

The hotel is modern, clean and bright, with a calming palette of neutrals punctuated by the blue hue of the brand. The junior suites with a terrace offer a remarkable view of the Tower of Joan of Arc next door.

If you’ve found this in-depth travel guide helpful, its best companion would be our digital map.

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